How to Choose a Baseball or Softball Glove

Helping you choose the right baseball or softball glove — first time.

Independent advice from the UK’s official Rawlings distributor, trading since 2007.

Why buy from us

  • Official Rawlings UK distributor — the widest authentic Rawlings range in Britain.
  • Independent specialist trading since 2007 — 18 years supplying UK clubs and players.
  • 2,087 verified customer reviews at 4.8★ on Judge.me.
  • Real expertise on hand — talk to people who play the sport, not a generalist call centre.

Start here: which hand?

Before anything else, get this one decision right. The single most common mistake when buying a glove is ordering the wrong throwing hand.

You wear the glove on your non-throwing hand. Your dominant hand stays free to take the ball out and throw it.

  • Right Hand Throw (RHT) — also called Regular: you throw with your right hand, so the glove goes on your left hand. This is the most common option.
  • Left Hand Throw (LHT): you throw with your left hand, so the glove goes on your right hand. Fewer models are made in LHT, especially for catchers and first basemen, so check availability before settling on a specific glove.

If you remember nothing else

  1. Match the glove to your throwing hand (RHT vs LHT).
  2. Match the glove to the position you play.
  3. Match the leather grade to your skill level and budget.

Get those three right and you’ll buy a glove that lasts.

Step 1: choose by skill level

Skill level is one of the most important things to think about, and the part most online guides skip over. A 12-year-old in their first season and a 35-year-old returning to fastpitch after years away both need very different gloves, even if they play the same position.

Use the table below to find roughly where you sit. We use this to point buyers at the right tier of leather and the right Rawlings range. The leather-grade detail follows further down.

Tier Who it suits What to look for Typical Rawlings range
Beginner / first glove First-season players, kids, casual once-a-summer adults Synthetic or entry-level leather. Lighter, easier to close, lower price, very short break-in. Renegade, Playmaker, R9
Recreational / club regular Slowpitch league players, returning adults, intermediate juniors Mid-tier oiled leather. Good balance of feel, durability and break-in time. Sandlot, Select Pro Lite, Player Preferred
Competitive / serious club player Adult fastpitch, BBF / NBL players, serious juniors Premium steerhide. Holds shape under heavy use, lasts many seasons, longer break-in. Heart of the Hide
Elite / pro-level Top-flight competitive players who want the best feel money can buy Premium kip leather. Pro-grade construction, premium price, the gold standard. Pro Preferred

A note on “growing into” a glove: don’t. Especially with kids. A glove that’s too big lets the player cheat — they catch with the wrong part of the pocket and never develop proper technique. Buy the right size now and replace it when they outgrow it. We’d rather sell you two correctly sized gloves over five years than one ill-fitting one that puts a player off the sport.

Step 2: choose by position

Different positions need different gloves — different lengths, different pocket depths, different web styles. Here is what to look for.

Baseball

Position Size Web What and why
Pitcher 11.5–12″ Closed Closed web hides the ball and your grip from the batter. Slightly larger than a pure infield glove because it doesn’t need the very fastest transfer.
Infield (2B, SS) 11–11.75″ Open (I-web, H-web) Smaller and shallower for the quickest possible transfer to the throwing hand. Open web lets dirt fall through and helps you see the ball into the pocket.
Third base 11.75–12″ Closed Closer to the bat, harder-hit balls. A closed web gives extra support and a slightly longer glove gives extra reach.
Outfield 12.5–12.75″ H-web or trapeze Longer for reach on fly balls, deeper pocket for tracking down the deep ones. The extra length matters more than the extra weight at this distance.
First base 12.5–13″ (mitt) Single-post / dual-post A first baseman’s mitt has no individual finger stalls and is built to scoop throws out of the dirt. Distinct from any other glove.
Catcher 32–34.5″ (mitt) Closed A catcher’s mitt is measured by circumference, not length. Heavily padded to absorb fast pitches. A specialist piece of kit.

Softball

Softball uses a bigger ball, so gloves run longer and pockets run deeper than the baseball equivalent. As a rule of thumb, an adult woman typically uses a 12″ glove (Rawlings 12″ Playmaker or Renegade is a good starting point) and an adult man typically uses a 13″ glove. Specifics by position:

Position Size Web What and why
Pitcher 12–13″ Closed Closed web to hide the grip. Slightly smaller than other positions to keep transfers quick.
Infield (fastpitch) 12–12.5″ Open Open web for quick transfers. Slightly larger than a baseball infield glove to handle the bigger ball.
Infield (slowpitch) 12.5–13″ Open or H-web Slowpitch infielders often go a touch larger — the ball is bigger again and the pace allows it.
Outfield 13–14″ H-web or trapeze Maximum reach and pocket depth. The big sizes — 13.5″, 14″ — are softball-specific.
First base 13–13.5″ (mitt) Single-post Same role as the baseball equivalent, sized up for the bigger ball.
Catcher 33–35″ (mitt) Closed Built for the larger softball, particularly in fastpitch where the velocity is significant.

Buying for a child or younger junior

If you’re buying for a player under 14, use the table below as your starting point. Position matters less at this age than getting a glove the player can actually close with one hand.

Age Glove size Notes
Under 7 9–10″ Synthetic or entry-level leather. The lightest possible glove they can comfortably close.
7 to early teens 10–11.5″ Step up to entry-level leather. Position-specific sizing starts to matter from around 10.
Early to mid-teens 11–12″ (infield) / 12–12.5″ (outfield) Now move to position-specific sizing. Mid-tier leather lasts longer if they’re playing regularly.

Step 3: choose by leather grade

Leather is where the price differences come from. A £100 glove and a £350 glove are not the same product with a different badge — the leather itself is different, the construction is different, and the lifespan is different.

Here is what you’re paying for at each grade. We’ve framed these around Rawlings because we’re the UK distributor and it’s the dominant brand in the category, but the principles apply across most major manufacturers.

Grade What it is Break-in Best for Price band
Synthetic / entry leather Synthetic shell or basic leather. Light, soft, ready to go. Minimal First gloves, kids, casual play £
Mid-tier oiled leather Full-grain leather, pre-oiled at the factory. Good feel, sensible durability. 1–2 weeks Recreational / club regular ££
Heart of the Hide (steerhide) Pro-grade steerhide. Stiffer when new but holds shape and lasts many seasons. 3–6 weeks Competitive / serious club £££
Pro Preferred (kip leather) Premium kip leather — the leather used on most MLB gloves. The best feel money can buy. 4–8 weeks Elite / pro-level ££££

If you’re unsure where to start: most adult club players are best served in the mid-tier (Sandlot, Select Pro Lite, Player Preferred). It’s the sweet spot — proper leather, proper construction, sensible break-in time, sensible price. Move up to Heart of the Hide if you’re playing regularly and want a glove that will last 5+ seasons.

Other features that matter

Webbing

  • Closed web (basket, two-piece): preferred by pitchers (hides the ball), third basemen (extra support on hard-hit balls), and outfielders who want a deeper pocket.
  • Open web (I-web, H-web, trapeze): preferred by infielders for the quickest possible transfer. Lets you see the ball into the pocket and lets dirt fall through.

Back style

Open backs are more flexible and allow more wrist movement — typical for infielders. Closed backs offer more support and structure — typical for outfielders and many softball gloves. Either can work for either position; it’s largely personal preference once you know the difference.

Wrist adjustment

Three common types. None is objectively better than another — it’s about what you find comfortable.

  • Velcro: fastest to adjust, can wear out faster on heavily used gloves.
  • Lacing: tighten or loosen with leather laces. Longest-lasting, slowest to adjust.
  • Buckle: adjustable like a hat strap. Less common, very secure.

Padding

Modern gloves have more padding across all positions than they used to, but catcher’s mitts and first baseman’s mitts are the heavily-padded specialist items. Some gloves also have wrist padding for extra comfort — useful for infielders taking hard-hit grounders.

Breaking in your new glove

A new leather glove will be stiff. Breaking it in correctly means the glove moulds to your hand and forms a proper pocket where the ball will sit. Done badly, you can ruin a £200 glove in an afternoon — so it’s worth doing properly.

What to do

  • Apply a thin coat of glove conditioner. We recommend Rawlings Glovolium or a similar leather-safe conditioner. A small amount on a clean cloth, worked gently into the palm, web and back. A light coating is all you need.
  • Leave for 24 hours. Let it absorb. Wipe off any excess oil before using.
  • Play catch. 50–70 throws is a good first session. Repeated catching is what actually breaks the glove in — oil softens the leather, but only use shapes the pocket.
  • Shape the pocket. Store the glove with a ball in the pocket and a band or wrap around it overnight. This forms a defined pocket where the ball naturally sits.

What not to do

  • Don’t over-oil. More oil is not better. A heavy soak makes the leather soft and floppy and shortens the glove’s life dramatically.
  • Don’t use household oils. No olive oil, no Vaseline, no shaving foam. Use a proper glove conditioner.
  • Don’t microwave or oven-bake. Internet advice that tells you to do this will void any manufacturer warranty and can crack the leather.

Looking after your glove

  • Condition every few weeks during the season — more often in dry weather, less in damp. A small amount each time.
  • Store cool and dry, away from direct sunlight and away from heat. A cupboard, not a car boot in summer.
  • Always store with a ball in the pocket. Maintains the pocket shape between sessions.
  • Check the laces. If they’re fraying, get them replaced before they break. We carry replacement laces and can re-lace gloves on request.

Ready to buy?

Browse our range by what matters most to you:

  • By position: infield gloves, outfield gloves, pitcher’s gloves, first baseman’s mitts, catcher’s mitts.
  • By Rawlings range: Heart of the Hide, Pro Preferred, Sandlot, Select Pro Lite, R9, Renegade, Playmaker.
  • By sport: baseball fielding gloves, softball fielding gloves (fastpitch and slowpitch).
  • Glove care: Glovolium conditioner, leather cleaner, replacement laces, glove cribs.

Buying for a club or team?

We supply most baseball, softball and cricket clubs in the UK. We offer:

  • Volume discounts on team orders
  • Pro Player Glove ranges with consistent quality across squad sets
  • Club affiliation programme with ongoing pricing benefits
  • Direct contact — talk to a real person who plays the sport

Contact us about club pricing or browse the Pro Player range.

Still not sure?

Drop us a line. We’ve been doing this since 2007 and we’d rather spend ten minutes pointing you at the right glove than have you buy the wrong one. Email, phone or live chat — whichever suits.

This information is to be used as a guide only. If in doubt, ask.